Rila Monastery, a symbol of resilience of the human spirit

As we drove along the narrow, mountainous road to Rila Monastery, my co-passenger mused, “I suppose the gods all over the world choose to manifest in mountains, caves, or places away from humanity.” From a distance, I could see a stunning fortress-like structure against the backdrop of a snow-clad mountain that reminded me of Mount Kailash. It was late April.

Nestled in the Rila Mountains, the highest mountain range in the Balkan Peninsula and southeast Europe, at an elevation of 1,147 metres, this monumental site is Bulgaria’s largest Eastern Orthodox monastery. Located about 117 km south of Sofia, it covers an area of 8,800 square metres. Ivan Rilski, or Saint John of Rila, the patron saint of Bulgaria, was a 10th-century hermit who founded the monastery during the first Bulgarian Empire (7th-11th century CE). The monastery houses his relics.

Striking blend

The architecture of the Rila Monastery complex is a striking blend of medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. It is quadrangular, surrounded by high stone walls that rise to 24 metres, and features narrow windows and arched entrances. The residential buildings encircle an inner courtyard that accommodates about 60 monks. It includes monks’ cells, guest rooms, a library, a dining hall, and a museum. Arched porticoes and open-air balconies frame the courtyard, showcasing black-and-white striped patterns and vivid colours.

Inside the complex is a beautiful church dedicated to the Virgin Mother, rebuilt between 1834 and 1837. It is a five-domed church arranged in a cross shape, featuring vibrant frescoes painted by artists such as Zahari Zograf and an elaborately carved wooden icon screen. Its architecture combines Neo-Byzantine and Baroque styles. The complex includes Hrelyo’s Tower, a 23-metre-high medieval structure designed in the Bulgarian style, which features a chapel with frescoes on the top floor.

The residential refuge has faced challenging times. The original structure was destroyed during the Ottoman conquest and was reconstructed between 1335 and 1343 CE. Subsequently, part of it was destroyed by fire in 1833 during the Bulgarian National Revival and was rebuilt between 1834 and 1862 through generous donations. It is believed that the monastery’s relative geographical isolation contributed to its independence.

During the fight against the Ottomans, the monastery served as a sanctuary for revolutionaries and preserved valuable manuscripts, clergy, and scholars. Monks and clergy from Rila indirectly supported revolutionary movements. After Bulgaria gained independence in 1878, the monastery was honoured as a symbol of national identity, and in 1983, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The area is home to the seven Rila Lakes, which are situated one above the other and connected by small streams that create tiny waterfalls and cascades. Visitors must use a ropeway and then climb on foot to reach these lakes. I was informed that the ropeway service begins only around mid-May, and most visitors manage to see a maximum of four lakes, as the journey is physically challenging

As we departed the monastery complex, I reflected on the remarkable resilience of the human spirit in sustaining a way of life.

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